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| Tags: advice, beginner |
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#1
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I used to play against a Novag Solo Chess computer as a kid. It's ELO rating was estimated at 1300. I beat it on its hardest setting, so I sold it. The plan was to get a stronger one but I never did (not having much money!). That was almost 20 years ago! So anyway I decided just recently that I really used to enjoy a good old game of chess. So..... I downloaded Crafty and I'm ready to go again in the 21st Century. In fact maybe Crafty is setting my sights too high perhaps I should download another chess engine, maybe GNU Chess until I can beat it? Well anyway that's not really my point, what I'm really after are some pointers to some good resources to really improve my strength. I mean sites, DVDs, books, anything really. I just want to get back into the game but also move "to the next level". I learnt from the "Pocket Book of Chess by Raymond Keene" if that helps make any recommendations. |
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#2
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Jack Jones wrote:
So..... I downloaded Crafty and I'm ready to go again in the 21st Century. In fact maybe Crafty is setting my sights too high perhaps I should download another chess engine, maybe GNU Chess until I can beat it? Any decent chess program running on modern hardware will play at comfortably over 2000 level so, frankly, if you beat it any time soon, you don't need our advice. :-) In my experience, the free programs are written by people whose goal is to write the strongest program they can. These programs tend not to dumb down too well. You could buy a copy of Fritz or Chessmaster -- you should be able to find an older version very cheaply. The commercial programs are generally better at playing weaker chess. (For Fritz, I'd recommend `handicap' mode rather than `friend' mode or `sparring' mode.) Well anyway that's not really my point, what I'm really after are some pointers to some good resources to really improve my strength. I mean sites, DVDs, books, anything really. I just want to get back into the game but also move "to the next level". The first thing to sort out is tactics. Reinfeld's books of problems (1001 checkmates and 1001 sacrifices and combinations) are a good place to start. http://www.chessgames.com/ has a daily tactics puzzle, which gets harder through the week (Monday is usually a queen sacrifice to force mate in two; Sunday is usually impossible unless you're Russian and your surname begins with `K'.) Dan Heisman's `Novice Nook' column at http://www.chesscafe.com/ is invaluable. Dave. -- David Richerby Permanent Gnome (TM): it's like a www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~davidr/ smiling garden ornament but it'll be there for ever! |
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#3
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On Mar 12, 3:47 pm, Jack Jones wrote:
I used to play against a Novag Solo Chess computer as a kid. It's ELO rating was estimated at 1300. I beat it on its hardest setting, so I You are very weak player But I suggest you play at GetClub Beginner: 1600 rating will give you a tough match. Visit: http://www.GetClub.com/Chess.html and start playing. No downloads needed You can play with Beginner Level without login as many times you wish. Once you beat beginner level. Login & play with Higher Levels. Bye Sanny Play Chess at: http://www.GetClub.com/Chess.html |
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#4
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(For Fritz, I'd recommend `handicap' mode rather than `friend' mode or `sparring' mode.) I heartily agree with the above, and I would add that Chessmaster 10th Edition is a great program for a beginner. It's dozens of "personalities" with biographies and ratings can make playing rated games and going for points positively addicting! However, I recommend it with one reservation: It freezes frequently on my computer. I don't know why. Others don't seem to have the problem. If it works for you, though, its fantastic. Lots of instructional materials too! The first thing to sort out is tactics. Reinfeld's books of problems (1001 checkmates and 1001 sacrifices and combinations) are a good place to start. http://www.chessgames.com/ has a daily tactics puzzle, which gets harder through the week (Monday is usually a queen sacrifice to force mate in two; Sunday is usually impossible unless you're Russian and your surname begins with `K'.) Dan Heisman's `Novice Nook' column at http://www.chesscafe.com/ is invaluable. I wouldn't START with Reinfeld's books. Though they are the classics for combinations, they can be maddeningly difficult, and you never know whether you're staring at a mate in two or in eight! You do, however, know what the theme is, and that can point you in the right direction. If you want a great beginner and intermediate and master book of brain-teasers, get "Chess: 5334 Problems, Combinations, and Games" by Polgar. It starts with 350 mate-in-one problems which you should train yourself to solve in seconds (though some stymied me for two minutes or more!) followed up by about 2500 mate-in-two. Then three, then over 600 games and a bunch of combinations. If you want the one desert island chess book for a super price, check it out. Even when you move on to lots of other books about to be recommended in this thread, Polgar's will remain a trusted companion. |
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#5
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Michael Steen wrote:
David Richerby wrote: The first thing to sort out is tactics. Reinfeld's books of problems (1001 checkmates and 1001 sacrifices and combinations) are a good place to start. [...] I wouldn't START with Reinfeld's books. Though they are the classics for combinations, they can be maddeningly difficult, and you never know whether you're staring at a mate in two or in eight! To some extent, I feel that this is an advantage. In real life, you don't even have an angel sitting on your shoulder saying ``There's a forced mate here'', let alone, ``There's a mate in three!'' On the other hand, I appreciate that it can be a bit frustrating when an easy mate in one or two is followed by a subtle mate in eight with lots of variations to consider. The checkmates book is rather easier than the combinations book, I think, but I've only looked at the first chapter of the checkmates. If you want a great beginner and intermediate and master book of brain-teasers, get "Chess: 5334 Problems, Combinations, and Games" by Polgar. I've not looked at that book but, as I recall, most of the positions are composed. Most of the point of tactics problems is pattern recognition so I think it's important that the positions you work on come from real games. Reinfeld's positions are from real games. Dave. -- David Richerby Old-Fashioned Sadistic Monk (TM): www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~davidr/ it's like a man of God but it wants to hurt you and it's perfect for your grandparents! |
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#6
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"David Richerby" wrote in message ... Michael Steen wrote: David Richerby wrote: The first thing to sort out is tactics. Reinfeld's books of problems (1001 checkmates and 1001 sacrifices and combinations) are a good place to start. [...] I wouldn't START with Reinfeld's books. Though they are the classics for combinations, they can be maddeningly difficult, and you never know whether you're staring at a mate in two or in eight! To some extent, I feel that this is an advantage. In real life, you don't even have an angel sitting on your shoulder saying ``There's a forced mate here'', let alone, ``There's a mate in three!'' On the other hand, I appreciate that it can be a bit frustrating when an easy mate in one or two is followed by a subtle mate in eight with lots of variations to consider. The checkmates book is rather easier than the combinations book, I think, but I've only looked at the first chapter of the checkmates. If you want a great beginner and intermediate and master book of brain-teasers, get "Chess: 5334 Problems, Combinations, and Games" by Polgar. I've not looked at that book but, as I recall, most of the positions are composed. Most of the point of tactics problems is pattern recognition so I think it's important that the positions you work on come from real games. Reinfeld's positions are from real games. Dave. I have both the large Polgar book and the Reinfeld 1001 Winning Chess Sacrifices and Combinations. They are both excellent books. I like the large number of problems from the Polgar book which ramp up in difficulty. But I really like the quality of the Reinfeld ones, for instance when working with an example of a pin, it does not show a simple method for using a pin, but what you do *after* you have a pin established. You go beyond the pin to apply visualization and calculation to a greater depth. I am very happy to have finally gotten my hands on this book. Yes, the Reinfeld book is harder, but that is a good thing. It covers a lot of great tactical devices. -Matt |
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