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| Tags: alternative, clock, scheme, time |
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#1
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I am not saying this is a good idea as it stands, but rather I am throwing it out there as a thought experiment to see if someone comes up with a better variation. For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. -- Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ |
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#2
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Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote:
For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather than the USCF. Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. Are people not already doing this? Starting with only twenty minutes on the clock seems a bit short for serious games, even with a three-minute increment, but the basic idea is very sound. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. At work, I don't have time for six-hour games of chess! Dave. -- David Richerby Old-Fashioned Chocolate T-Shirt (TM): www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~davidr/ it's like a fashion statement that's made of chocolate but it's perfect for your grandparents! |
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#3
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David Richerby wrote: Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote: For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather than the USCF. You are correct. I apologize; in my haste I mentally confused the three major methods (Fischer, Bronstein, FIDE) and somehow managed to insert the term "USCF" in there. Sorry about that. http://www.dgtprojects.com/clock_tim....htm#bronstein Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. Are people not already doing this? Starting with only twenty minutes on the clock seems a bit short for serious games, even with a three-minute increment, but the basic idea is very sound. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. At work, I don't have time for six-hour games of chess! I once did nothing but play chess for over a week while sitting in the bunker next to a launchpad as the countdown got stopped or reset multiple times. Got the bird into orbit at the end, though! |
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#4
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Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather
than the USCF. You are correct. *I apologize; in my haste I mentally confused the three major methods (Fischer, Bronstein, FIDE) and somehow managed to insert the term "USCF" in there. *Sorry about that. ARE YOU a SCIENTIST ??? This Symptom is very common among them. Bye Sanny Play Chess at: http://www.GetClub.com/Chess.html |
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#5
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8Bit Sanny wrote: Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather than the USCF. You are correct. *I apologize; in my haste I mentally confused the three major methods (Fischer, Bronstein, FIDE) and somehow managed to insert the term "USCF" in there. *Sorry about that. ARE YOU a SCIENTIST ??? This Symptom is very common among them. Sorry, I don't answer questions asked by known spammers. -- Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ |
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#6
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On Mar 24, 10:13 pm, Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote:
I am not saying this is a good idea as it stands, but rather I am throwing it out there as a thought experiment to see if someone comes up with a better variation. For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. What is your reason for wanting to change how the chess clock works? I can see one main reason, and it isn't for the players. The reason is for the spectators, in order to keep a chess game more evenly paced. I would recommend the Bronstein version without the time bonus that the Fischer clock adds. Unless you are catering to spectators, I am not sure why you want to do it. - Rich |
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#7
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"Guy Macon" http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote in message ... David Richerby wrote: Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote: For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather than the USCF. You are correct. I apologize; in my haste I mentally confused the three major methods (Fischer, Bronstein, FIDE) and somehow managed to insert the term "USCF" in there. Sorry about that. 4. There is also Kasparov delay, which doesn't add time, but doesn't count time for X seconds. Phil Innes http://www.dgtprojects.com/clock_tim....htm#bronstein Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. Are people not already doing this? Starting with only twenty minutes on the clock seems a bit short for serious games, even with a three-minute increment, but the basic idea is very sound. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. At work, I don't have time for six-hour games of chess! I once did nothing but play chess for over a week while sitting in the bunker next to a launchpad as the countdown got stopped or reset multiple times. Got the bird into orbit at the end, though! |
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#8
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Chess One wrote: "Guy Macon" http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote in message ... David Richerby wrote: Guy Macon http://www.guymacon.com/ wrote: For comparison, let's start with a 40/120, D/60 time control with a USCF-Style delay of 5 seconds. Replace the USCF-style the delay with a Fischer increment (meaning 5 seconds are added to your clock when you hit the button rather than the clock waiting 5 seconds before starting to count down -- the difference being that with a Fischer delay you can gain time by moving quickly). Your `USCF-style delay' is usually credited to David Bronstein, rather than the USCF. You are correct. I apologize; in my haste I mentally confused the three major methods (Fischer, Bronstein, FIDE) and somehow managed to insert the term "USCF" in there. Sorry about that. 4. There is also Kasparov delay, which doesn't add time, but doesn't count time for X seconds. Phil Innes http://www.dgtprojects.com/clock_tim....htm#bronstein Now replace the 40/120, D/60 with SD/10 or SD/20, but with the Fischer delay set to 3 minutes. Are people not already doing this? Starting with only twenty minutes on the clock seems a bit short for serious games, even with a three-minute increment, but the basic idea is very sound. This, of course, wouldn't make matches end by the next round, but when playing a club game or a game at work, it would avoid the rather artificial "race until the time control changes then relax" effect. At work, I don't have time for six-hour games of chess! I once did nothing but play chess for over a week while sitting in the bunker next to a launchpad as the countdown got stopped or reset multiple times. Got the bird into orbit at the end, though! Why would you attribute that method to Kasparov? It's the USCF standard, and has been so since the early 90s. There are essentially three "delay" methods. The USCF ("time delay") doesn't start the clock for x seconds after the button has been pushed. The "Bronstein" method starts counting down immediately, but adds x seconds when you stop your clock, up to a max of the time you had when you clock started. The effect is _almost_ identical to the first, though there is a tiny difference if you are very short of time. The "Fischer" method is the same as Bronstein, except that your time can accumulate without limit. If you want to argue about the names, go ahead (though I don't plan to listen), but these are the options available if you want to design a new time control. |
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#9
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